Volume 13 - Issue 74
/ February 2024
129
http:// www.amazoniainvestiga.info ISSN 2322- 6307
DOI: https://doi.org/10.34069/AI/2024.74.02.11
How to Cite:
Baliun, O., Solomka, P., Fisenko, T., Holovko, O., & Kasianchuk, V. (2024). Experience in implementing the ecological concept of
CSR (On the example of ukrainian fashion brands). Amazonia Investiga, 13(74), 129-142.
https://doi.org/10.34069/AI/2024.74.02.11
Experience in implementing the ecological concept of CSR
(On the example of ukrainian fashion brands)
ДОСВІД ВПРОВАДЖЕННЯ ЕКОЛОГІЧНОЇ КОНЦЕПЦІЇ КСВ (НА ПРИКЛАДІ
УКРАЇНСЬКИХ ФЕШИОН БРЕНДІВ)
Received: December 29, 2023 Accepted: February 23, 2024
Written by:
Baliun Оksana1
https://orcid.org/0000-0002-7676-9049
Solomka Polina2
https://orcid.org/0009-0002-1083-7245
Fisenko Tetiana3
https://orcid.org/0000-0003-1837-0117
Holovko Olha4
https://orcid.org/0000-0002-9955-4913
Kasianchuk Valeriia5
https://orcid.org/0000-0003-1690-0735
Abstract
The relevance of the chosen topic is due to the
lack of scientific research on the ecological
responsibility of Ukrainian fashion brands. The
study aims to uncover the significance of the
ecological component of corporate social
responsibility in the practice of Ukrainian
fashion brands and to determine its impact on
consumer trust levels. The methodological basis
of the research consists of a combination of
general scientific and sociological methods.
The study of Ukrainian fashion brand
experiences has shown that ecological activities
are mostly used situationally, particularly by
local-level designer brands. Based on the
analysis of Ukrainian experiences, technologies,
and tools of ecological practices applied in brand
social responsibility programs have been
systematized into the following categories: eco-
1
Ph.D., Associate Professor of the Department of Publishing and Editing National Technical University of Ukraine Igor Sikorsky
Kyiv Polytechnic Institute, Ukraine. WoS Researcher ID: G-1866-2018
2
Master of the Department of Publishing and Editing National Technical University of Ukraine Igor Sikorsky Kyiv Polytechnic
Institute, Ukraine. WoS Researcher ID: JXM-3085-2024
3
Ph.D., Associate Professor of the Department of Publishing and Editing National Technical University of Ukraine Igor Sikorsky
Kyiv Polytechnic Institute, Ukraine. WoS Researcher ID: I-3151-2018
4
Senior lector of the Department of Publishing and Editing National Technical University of Ukraine Igor Sikorsky Kyiv Polytechnic
Institute, Ukraine. WoS Researcher ID: I-3283-2018
5
Ph.D., Associate Professor of the Department of Publishing and Editing National Technical University of Ukraine Igor Sikorsky
Kyiv Polytechnic Institute, Ukraine. WoS Researcher ID: AAK-3563-2020
130
www.amazoniainvestiga.info ISSN 2322- 6307
production, eco-products, eco-events, eco-
processes, eco-cooperation, eco-strategies, and
eco-communications.
The current state of consumer behavior and
societal attitudes towards the eco-activities of
fashion brands has been investigated. Within the
research framework, a sociological online survey
was conducted, which confirmed the hypothesis
that Ukrainian society recognizes the necessity of
transitioning to conscious ecological clothing
consumption. However, responsible consumer
behavior is not observed simultaneously, leading
to the development of a phenomenon where
fashion production follows Western trends in
implementing eco-initiatives, thereby shaping a
culture of conscious ecological consumption.
Keywords: consumer, corporate social
responsibility, ecological responsibility, fashion-
brand, media activity.
Introduction
The rapid development of entrepreneurship and
globalization processes in the environment
business raises questions about the
environmental responsibility of companies,
which is arguably one of the foremost aspects of
corporate social responsibility (CSR).
The fashion industry is one of the most polluting
industrial sectors globally, so brands producing
clothing, footwear, and accessories must rethink
their business practices and implement
comprehensive systems of effective tools for
ethical environmental management as part of
CSR. International experience demonstrates
numerous practical advantages of conducting
responsible business, while the Ukrainian market
is only beginning to formulate concepts
regarding methods of ethical business activities
in its strategies.
The environmental awareness of Ukrainian
consumers, which has recently become more
pronounced, consistently urges brands to
formulate their business concepts consciously
and to choose pathways for enterprise
development considering the impact the
company can project on the environment.
Currently, the focus is not only on minimizing
environmental harm but also on the contribution
an organization can make to enable the world to
function sustainably in the future.
The relevance of the chosen topic is driven by
the lack of comprehensive and systematized
scientific works analyzing the environmental
responsibility of Ukrainian fashion brands. Also
lacking are studies on Ukrainian consumers'
clothing purchasing needs and their expectations
regarding the eco-initiatives of Ukrainian fashion
brands. Ukrainian consumers are highly reliant
on current fashion trends. Despite economic
difficulties, they regularly update their wardrobe
each season, mostly through brands that promote
fast fashion. This consumer behavior is
influenced by a certain historical burden when
during the times of the Soviet Union, women and
men were deprived of the opportunity to have
modern, nice clothing.
This necessitates the need for conducting
scientific research on such an important
component of corporate social responsibility as
environmental protection in the fashion industry.
After all, the application of eco-initiatives in the
practical activities of companies can serve as a
communication tool capable of shaping a
positive reputation.
The goal of the research is to uncover the
essence and significance of the environmental
component of CSR in the practices of Ukrainian
fashion brands. The working hypothesis of the
research is based on the assumption that
Ukrainian society recognizes the need to
Baliun, O., Solomka, P., Fisenko, T., Holovko, O., Kasianchuk, V. / Volume 13 - Issue 74: 129-142 / February, 2024
Volume 13 - Issue 74
/ February 2024
131
http:// www.amazoniainvestiga.info ISSN 2322- 6307
transition to conscious ecological clothing
consumption given quality production and
appropriate pricing. However, responsible
consumer behavior is not observed
simultaneously, leading to the development of a
phenomenon where it's not society demanding
eco-responsibility from the producer, but rather
the producer shaping eco-culture and
contributing to raising consumer awareness
about environmental threats. This necessitates
setting the following objectives for this research:
identify and generalize the main directions of
environmental responsibility among Ukrainian
fashion brands; and determine the level of
environmental awareness among Ukrainian
consumers of fashion products through
sociological research.
Theoretical framework or literature review
The scientific discourse on environmental
protection began in 1962 after the release of
biologist Carson's (1962) book "Silent Spring".
A significant breakthrough in the academic
discipline of business and strategy was made by
Porter & Kramer (2006), who argued that
companies should create competitive advantages
by integrating social and environmental issues
into their core business strategies, thus
incorporating sustainability into their strategic
framework.
The problem of the impact of fast fashion on the
environment is topical in scientific discourse. In
particular, researchers De Ponte, Liscio &
Sospiro (2023) emphasize the need for
implementing effective management strategies to
reduce the impact of fashion waste on the
environment. Ukrainian researcher Fiialka
(2017) pays attention to the behavior of
companies regarding the use of greenwashing in
the Ukrainian market and argues that
environmental initiatives of brands should be
supported by effective actions, especially in the
context of environmental concerns, as these
issues are urgent, and consumer deception can
affect companies both financially and
emotionally.
Additionally, the research foundation is
supported by an interesting approach to the
classification of environmental innovations
proposed by Zarebska & Michalska (2016), who
distinguish between process, product,
organizational, and marketing innovations.
Ukrainian experience in forming environmental
strategy is presented in the work of
Kamyshnykova (2017), who has proposed an
algorithm of actions for the effective
implementation of environmental initiatives in
CSR business.
Dovhun & Krykavskyy (2017), Tarayevska &
Rishchuk (2021) focus on the peculiarities of
implementing the environmental component of
corporate social responsibility in Ukraine. In the
research work "Ecodesign and initiatives of
sustainable development in the dimension of
passion of artistic and design creativity,"
Ukrainian scientists note that the future
development of the fashion industry is linked to
the use of environmentally friendly and
technological fabrics. Researchers predict that
new creative searches are due to the vital need for
a new philosophy of world perception, which
will influence ecodesign in the future (Lahoda et
al., 2023). On the other hand, Mahmoud, Kumar,
Fuxman & Mohr (2023) raise the question in the
scientific discourse of whether sustainable
materials can truly be considered a source of
luxury and if the perception of climate change
risk will affect that attribution.
The modern legal aspect of regulating state
environmental policy in Ukraine, an adaptation
of international legal experience within the
European integration framework, is disclosed by
researchers Kryzhevskyi, Ripenko, Nikitin,
Kozin, & Kuzmenko (2023). Separate aspects of
the role of social investment projects for business
and for the country's economic development in
general are considered by researchers
Minochkina et al. (2023).
Overall, the topics of development in the
Ukrainian fashion business and, in particular, its
environmental responsibility, are quite new and
under-researched for Ukrainian scholars. Mostly,
Ukrainian experts pay attention to the practices
of their foreign colleagues and explore the theory
and history of environmental responsibility
(Galushka & Kondratenko, 2020; Gerasymenko,
Chuprina, Davydenko, Chubotina, Khomenko &
Kudrevsky, 2023).
Understanding the importance of environmental
protection from the harmful effects of fast
fashion and implementing appropriate CSR
practices in enterprises is crucial for shaping and
developing socially responsible businesses in
Ukraine. In particular, the studies by Kvasnytsya
(2019) and Tymoshenko & Kotsiubivska (2021)
emphasize the importance of forming eco-
concepts in the fashion industry.
Within our work, the results of research
presented by Correa et al. (2021) regarding the
attitudes of young millennials towards brand
132
www.amazoniainvestiga.info ISSN 2322- 6307
social marketing actions are also intriguing. In
particular, the dependence of the effectiveness of
brand communication actions on Generation Y
on their alignment with the social ideals of young
people. The results of this study are integrated
with sociological research conducted within our
work. This will allow Ukrainian fashion brands
to effectively shape strategies for
environmentally responsible business in the
future.
Methodology
In the research, the authors employed a
comprehensive interdisciplinary approach that
combines both general scientific and specialized
methods of information processing. Specifically,
methods such as description and observation
were used to identify primary information.
Methods such as analysis and synthesis,
comparison and generalization, as well as media
monitoring, were used to investigate the key
components of environmental responsibility
among Ukrainian fashion brands. This allowed
us to summarize and identify the main tools for
implementing environmental initiatives by
Ukrainian fashion brands. Based on this,
diagrams were graphically composed to
demonstrate a synthesized understanding of the
directions for implementing the environmental
CSR concept by brands and to determine their
relative importance.
Content analysis, conducted based on media
monitoring, enabled research into determining
the media activity of fashion brands. Within the
scope of the work, a sociological research
method was also applied to identify the attitudes
of Ukrainian consumers towards the
environmental responsibility of clothing
manufacturers. We surveyed 50 independent
respondents of different age groups. Google
Forms service was used to organize the survey,
which offers advantages such as prompt
dissemination and retrieval of data, anonymity,
automatic generation of graphs, and a wide
selection of resources for survey creation. The
survey questions were formulated to cover
various aspects of consumer behavior in clothing
purchases and to ascertain the importance of
environmental aspects of fashion brands for
consumers
Results and discussion
Fashion brands are companies engaged in the
manufacturing and sale of clothing, footwear,
and accessories. Globalization has been a driving
force in this direction, contributing to the
maximization of clothing production speed,
which, in turn, has led to increased exploitation
of natural materials and resources. Therefore,
environmentalists consider the fashion industry
one of the most polluted industrial sectors.
Closely related to the fashion industry is the
concept of "fast fashion," which leads to
excessive consumption and a large amount of
waste. Clothing categorized as fast fashion is
relatively inexpensive because it is of low quality
and is not recyclable; it targets consumers who
want to change their clothes regularly to follow
trends (Fombrun & Shanley, 1990).
Meanwhile, manufacturers have noticed that
consumers are gradually becoming more
discerning and increasingly considering the
materials and production methods of the clothing
they wear. Thus, fast fashion begins to displace
"slow fashion" — a movement that combines
social and environmental consciousness and
responsibility in consumption and is based on the
development, production, and purchase of high-
quality and durable clothing. Environmental
responsibility is manifested in the protection of
environmental resources, reducing carbon
footprint, and striving for zero waste (Stanton,
2021). In this context, collaboration between
business and government in environmental
protection is an important direction of activity. In
Ukraine, in 2020, the Government of Ukraine
approved the Concept for the Implementation of
State Policy to Promote the Development of
Socially Responsible Business (SRB) for the
period up to 2030 (Orden N.º 66, 2020). The
main directions of SRB development in
environmental protection include:
• Implementation of innovative
environmentally safe and energy-efficient
technologies;
• Prevention of negative environmental
impact;
• Promotion of waste utilization (Orden
Nº 66, 2020).
The document outlines ways to address
environmental issues through the following
tools: organizing environmental protection
systems by enterprises; seeking modernized
ways to improve environmental indicators;
training employees on environmental protection,
health, and safety issues; promoting rational
consumption of natural resources; reducing
harmful emissions into the atmosphere;
preserving biodiversity; organizing an
environmental management system (Orden
N.º 66, 2020).
Volume 13 - Issue 74
/ February 2024
133
http:// www.amazoniainvestiga.info ISSN 2322- 6307
The level of awareness among Ukrainian
businesses about the importance of implementing
environmental protection programs is
demonstrated by the latest study of the Pro Bono
Club Ukraine international network of corporate
social responsibility on the Ukrainian market,
which was conducted on the eve of the Russian-
Ukrainian war. The results of the sociological
study allow us to conclude that the majority of
companies implement educational projects,
improve working conditions and staff
development, and organize charity fundraisers.
Unfortunately, environmental protection is not a
priority for Ukrainian companies (CSR Ukraine,
2021).
Overall, in Ukraine, environmental aspects of the
CSR system are manifested in the following
types of company activities:
• Formulating policies for environmentally
responsible enterprises;
• Conducting environmental audits;
• Collaborating efforts to implement
initiatives with internal and external
stakeholders;
• Supplying goods according to
environmental standards;
• Producing environmentally friendly
products (Kamyshnykova, 2017).
In the mass-market segment in Ukraine, clothing
manufacturers are beginning to focus consumer
attention on certain aspects of their eco-activities.
Our attention will be focused on brands that have
already taken leading positions in the mass-
market segment, including Goldi, JUL.
The Ukrainian women's clothing manufacturer
JUL has focused its main efforts on eco-
responsibility in the following aspects: primarily
using natural fabrics in production; and
producing packaging boxes exclusively from
recyclable materials. Additionally, the brand
releases limited collections, which promotes
conscious consumption and reduces waste from
unsold items. The brand's main communication
platform is its website, where the company
should ideally showcase information about its
eco-responsibility. However, currently, there is
no information about the brand's environmental
activities in the media, which is not supported by
any evidence in the form of reports, thus it cannot
be taken seriously and may not instill trust among
stakeholders.
The brand Goldi, a mass-market clothing
manufacturer positioning itself as
environmentally sustainable and responsible,
informs stakeholders on its corporate website
that it uses only renewable energy sources and
has completely abandoned natural gas
consumption. The company also focuses on
preserving Ukrainian water bodies through the
use of a special water purification system.
Regarding eco-products, the Goldi brand seeks to
increase the supply of biodegradable materials
(Shtuka, 2021). Similar to the JUL brand, Goldi
does not make any informational materials
confirming its environmental activities publicly
available. Such an approach can be considered
irresponsible in terms of communication with
consumers, especially considering that the JUL
brand has high media activity in Ukrainian
fashion publications such as Vogue, Marie
Claire, Cosmopolitan, Elle, The Village, Harper's
Bazaar, HD Fashion, L'Officiel.
When considering the quality of JUL brand
content, the focus in publications is only on
presentations of new products, trends, clothing
compatibility, etc., with no attention paid to the
component of environmental responsibility. The
clothing manufacturer Goldi is an inactive
participant in the media space, which is a
strategic mistake for the brand in communicating
with stakeholders.
In Ukraine, business strategies for environmental
responsibility are more focused on designer
brands, which accordingly do not belong to the
mass-market segment but are exclusive
manufacturers. Let's analyze the positions of
such brands regarding environmental
responsibility and the consistent implementation
of environmental initiatives, including Ksenia
Shnaider, Bevza, Katya Silchenko, Litkovskaya,
My Sleeping Gypsy, No Clip Yes Zip (NCYZIP).
Kseniaschnaider brand is a manufacturer of
designer clothing that is now well-known and
recognized in Europe, the USA, and other
countries worldwide. The designers are
considered pioneers of eco-friendly fashion in
Eastern Europe, primarily based on the
production of recycled denim (Marchenko,
2020). The company processes about 500 pairs of
jeans for recycling per month, which amounts to
nearly 5 tons per year. In one season, Ksenia
Shnaider produces approximately 200 kg of
textile waste and manufactures about 3,000
recycled products per year. The uniqueness of the
brand's offering lies in the fact that each item is
exclusive, as it is composed of individual and
unique parts of recycled fabrics or those that
typically go to waste (Prys, 2020a). In 2016, the
company entered the international arena by
successfully launching a trendy product called
134
www.amazoniainvestiga.info ISSN 2322- 6307
demi-denim, which introduced the brand's
philosophy: combining vintage denim fabric with
different clothing pieces. It is worth noting that
the brand actively communicates with
consumers, and regularly conducts educational
activities through its communication platforms
regarding environmental responsibility.
Bevza is a Ukrainian clothing brand that
emphasizes the ethical treatment of nature as the
company's core value. Bevza is one of the most
popular Ukrainian brands globally and
showcases its clothing at fashion weeks in the
USA and Europe. The company collaborates
with Italian factories that have a 100% closed
cycle and produce environmentally friendly raw
materials (organic fabric dyeing, certified
recycled materials, etc.) and plans to further
expand cooperation with international
companies. In the development process of Bevza
products, innovative technologies are used to
manufacture eco-friendly goods. The Bevza
brand actively seeks to popularize conscious
consumption and environmental awareness both
in the Ukrainian market and abroad. The main
environmental responsibility stems from the
choice of raw materials, creating clothing using
eco-friendly techniques, and promoting
understanding of the concept of "sustainable
fashion" through initiatives that can draw
attention to social issues (Prys, 2020b). The
company is quite active in the media. Well-
known Ukrainian and international publications
such as Vogue, FW-Daily, Buro247, The Village
Ukraine, etc., write about the brand and its
ecological initiatives.
The next brand we present for consideration is
the Coat by Katya Silchenko, which is also well-
known in Ukrainian and international markets.
According to the concept of sustainable
development underlying the brand's philosophy,
responsibility is based on intelligent production.
K. Silchenko sees awareness of environmentally
sustainable consumption in planning the demand
for her clothing offerings (Bilous, 2021). In
2020, the brand presented an autumn collection
made from environmentally sustainable
materials, stating that the raw materials were
sourced from factories collaborating with global
brands, such as the environmentally conscious
brand Stella McCartney. Famous online
publications such as Vogue.ua, L’Officiel,
Elle.ua, and others have noticed the ecological
approaches in the production of the Coat by
Katya Silchenko.
The designer clothing brand Litkovskaya
declares its environmental responsibility mainly
through specific collections dedicated to
environmentally sustainable motives. For
example, in the fall of 2020, Litkovskaya
presented a demi-couture clothing line called
Artisanal, which translates to "made traditionally
or non-mechanically," corresponding to the
concept of ecological sustainability. In this
collection, the designer used fabric scraps,
vintage items, and remains of archival
collections. The products from the collection
were unique, and due to the limited nature of the
collection, they will not go to waste.
Additionally, the garments were crafted by
artisans from Carpathian villages using ancient
techniques on wooden looms. The main focuses
of the collection are preserving Ukrainian
traditions and adhering to the principles of
environmental sustainability and slow fashion
(Misyuk, 2020).
Therefore, it is evident that Litkovskaya's brand's
commitment to sustainable development is
limited and manifested in specific clothing
collections rather than in overall production.
Regarding communication coverage, the brand
has high activity indicators in both Ukrainian and
international publications: Vogue, Harper’s
Bazar, L’Official, Elle, and others.
My Sleeping Gypsy is a Ukrainian brand of
unique women's clothing that produces
embroidered shirts, embroidered dresses,
jumpsuits, and more. The brand focuses on "slow
fashion" production and states that it will never
sell clothing on a mass scale. The clothing is
made from natural fabrics such as linen and silk.
The company sources linen fabrics from local
producers and processes silk from second-hand
sources. My Sleeping Gypsy also adheres to
limited edition collections, focusing on the
quality and environmental sustainability of its
products. The production of My Sleeping Gypsy
clothing takes place in Ukraine, minimizing
transportation and aiming to reduce carbon
emissions. Only local artisans are involved in
creating the garments to control the production
chain in line with principles of environmental
sustainability, thereby supporting small artisan
communities. The brand has completely
abandoned sales and does not have outlet stores
(Nyzovets, 2023), instead focusing on the quality
of its products. My Sleeping Gypsy primarily
emphasizes environmental sustainability in
production and products (Birkner, 2020). Despite
being recognized in Europe and the USA,
information about the brand in the online space
is scarce, although it is represented on many
international online platforms for sales (such as
farfetch.com).
Volume 13 - Issue 74
/ February 2024
135
http:// www.amazoniainvestiga.info ISSN 2322- 6307
The next clothing brand we include for
consideration is No Clip Yes Zip (NCYZIP),
founded by blogger M. Tymoshenko and
designer N. Fishchenko in 2019. The concept of
this young brand aligns with conscious
consumption and emphasizes the importance of
moving away from the principles of fast fashion.
The brand creates modular clothing from
recycled materials. Overall, the brand's products
allow for interchangeable sleeves, collars,
pockets, hoods, etc., in different colors and
materials of varied textures. This concept fits into
the framework of ecological consumption
because instead of buying multiple garments, one
can constantly modify the existing clothing by
using individual components as needed. There is
limited information about the brand online,
indicating its relative novelty and the Ukrainian
audience's unpreparedness to accept such an
approach to consumption. However, there are
noticeable active communication strategies on
social media, especially on Instagram, indicating
a focus on a young audience, which nowadays
holds an active stance on ecological and
conscious consumption.
Therefore, the main activity of designer fashion
brands is focused on producing eco-friendly
goods using innovative technologies, making the
companies unique both in the Ukrainian market
and worldwide. Ukrainian brands actively
promote the wearing of ecological items through
fashion events such as global fashion weeks and
various Ukrainian or international ecological
projects. Brands also aim to obtain ecological
certifications, as seen in the case of Bevza, which
attests to the seriousness of their sustainable
development intentions. However, complying
with international standards is an expensive
procedure, and not every young brand can afford
it. Additionally, information about the awareness
of Ukrainian brands is increasingly spreading,
and in recent years, international online
publications have been writing about them,
confirming the relevance and success of their
ecological statements in the fashion space.
Based on the analysis of the activities of
Ukrainian designers advocating for ecological
clothing consumption, a histogram of the most
commonly used sustainable development
initiatives has been compiled (see Figure 1).
Figure 1. The using ratio of eco-categories by Ukrainian companies.
Source: Authors’ computation.
Leading positions are occupied by eco-product
categories as the primary element through which
brands can demonstrate their attitude towards the
environment. Eco-production ranks second in
both histograms as a complement to eco-
products. In Ukraine, eco-strategies, about which
companies still express uncertainty at the official
level, hold a low position, while international
companies express a clear position on ways to
achieve environmental goals. It is also worth
emphasizing cooperation, which helps to achieve
a common environmental objective. Foreign
companies are more open to cooperation and
strive to expand their network of external
stakeholders as much as possible. In Ukraine,
brands are only beginning to unite efforts to
implement environmentally sustainable projects.
Similarly, we detail the process of environmental
initiatives for each Ukrainian designer brand to
make a comprehensive comparative analysis.
(see Figure 2).
0
2
4
6
8
10
12
14
Eco Production Eco-products Eco-events Eco Cooperation Eco-strategiesEco Communications
136
www.amazoniainvestiga.info ISSN 2322- 6307
Figure 2. The distribution of the use of eco-categories by Ukrainian companies.
Source: Authors’ computation.
On the histogram (see Figure 2), we can see the
parallel involvement of all environmental
responsibility processes used by Ukrainian
brands. Most companies are just beginning to
implement eco-initiatives, but some activists
have already achieved positive results in terms of
paying attention to social issues both locally and
internationally. It is possible to talk about the
prospects of Ukrainian business, which can pay
attention to the environmentally sustainable
fashion industry as business communities and
society in general.
However, none of the investigated Ukrainian
brands have an environmental responsibility
strategy reflected in the company's goals,
mission, values, etc. We only observe individual
components of communication initiatives based
on environmental initiatives. There is no mention
of corporate social responsibility as an official
system regulating the processes of brand
activities in all analyzed Ukrainian fashion
brands. It can be noted that most eco-initiatives
have a situational nature, corresponding to the
concept of current implementation "here and
now" (see Table 1). Therefore, Ukrainian fashion
brands need to focus primarily on implementing
a comprehensive environmental management
system as a separate concept or as a component
of an integrated CSR.
Table 1.
Types of brands’ environmental responsibility
Brand
concept as -Eco
positioning
responsibility as part of -Eco
CSR
-Situational eco
responsibility
Ksenia Shnaider
+
Bevza
+
the Coat by Katya
Silchenko
+
Litkoskaya
+
NCYZIP
+
My Sleeping Gypsy
+
Source: Authors’ computation.
To determine the need for the implementation of
brand environmental responsibility, an online
survey of 50 independent respondents from
different age groups was conducted. The purpose
of the sociological study is to identify existing
and potential consumer needs of Ukrainian
society when purchasing clothing, assess the
level of environmental awareness, analyze
expectations for the launch of eco-initiatives by
Ukrainian fashion brands, evaluate the nature of
perception of environmentally responsible
brands, and understand which communication
0 0,5 1 1,5 2 2,5 3 3,5 4 4,5
Ksenia Shnaider
Bevza
the Coat by Katya Silchenko
Litkovskaya
My Sleeping Gypsy
NCYZIP
Título del gráfico
eco communication eco cooperation eco-events eco-products eco-production
Volume 13 - Issue 74
/ February 2024
137
http:// www.amazoniainvestiga.info ISSN 2322- 6307
channels contemporary society trusts the most.
The demographic data of the participants are as
follows: 69.4% are women and, accordingly,
30.6% are men. Age indicators: 40% are aged 20-
24 years; 34% are 32+; 14% are 16-20 years old;
8% are 24-28 years old, and 4% are 28-32 years
old.
The main group of questions related to consumer
characteristics, respondents' attitudes toward
Ukrainian manufacturers, ecology, and changes
regarding sustainable development in the fashion
industry. The next question of the survey was
dedicated to the quality of goods: "What do you
pay attention to when buying clothes?", and a
whopping 86% of respondents emphasized the
quality of products. In second place is
attractiveness (64%), followed by the naturalness
of materials (54%), compliance with trends
(30%), and the environmental friendliness of
materials (only 20%) (see Figure 3).
Figure 3. Criteria for choosing clothing by respondents.
Source: Authors’ computation.
Therefore, quality is the most important criterion
for Ukrainian consumers when choosing
clothing, while environmental friendliness is the
least demanded. Questions regarding the
environmental aspects of brands' work focused
on the methods of clothing production before
purchase: 81.6% of respondents are not
interested in how clothes are made, with only
8.2% willing to learn about the specifics of
garment creation. Meanwhile, 6% indicated
occasional interest, and 2% would like to show
interest in the future. (see Figure 4).
138
www.amazoniainvestiga.info ISSN 2322- 6307
Figure 4. Respondents' awareness of the methods of creating clothes.
Source: Authors’ computation.
Considering the almost total indifference of
Ukrainian consumers to how manufacturers
produce clothing (from what materials, with what
equipment, under what conditions, etc.), it is
interesting that when asked, "Are you concerned
about the environmental damage caused by the
fashion industry?" 58% answered "yes," and 38%
answered "no" (see Figure 5). In response to the
question, "Do you think Ukrainian fashion
brands should pay more attention to their
environmental footprint?" 92% answered
affirmatively, and 6% expressed indifference
(see Figure 6).
Figure 5. Respondents' attitude towards environmental damage caused by Ukrainian brands.
Source: Authors’ computation.
Are you interested in the production methods of
clothes before buying?
No Willing to learn Occasional interest Would like to show interest in the future
Are you concerned about the environmental
damage caused by the fashion industry?
Yes No Didn't think about it
Volume 13 - Issue 74
/ February 2024
139
http:// www.amazoniainvestiga.info ISSN 2322- 6307
Figure 6. Respondents' attitude towards the responsibility of Ukrainian clothing manufacturers for the
ecological footprint.
Source: Authors’ computation.
The survey results reveal a dissonance in
respondents' answers to questions regarding the
environmental practices of Ukrainian brands, as
the first directly relates to the consumer's actual
attitude toward one aspect of eco-friendliness in
clothing production, while the second and third
encompass the global context of the harm caused
by the fashion industry to the environment. This
is a kind of manipulative tactic because,
essentially, all three questions have a similar
underlying message but are formulated
differently. Society reacts actively to the loud
phrases "environmental damage" and "fashion
industry" and agrees that the textile industry
indeed negatively impacts the environment, so
it's worth paying attention to and worrying about.
However, when the question is straightforward
and doesn't contain any triggers, respondents
honestly admit that they are not particularly
interested in the methods of clothing production,
even though it is one of the key factors that cause
the most harm to the environment. In other
words, it can be argued that Ukrainian society is
indifferent to the environmental threats of the
fashion industry, likely due to low awareness.
It's worth focusing on the environmental
activities that respondents expect from Ukrainian
clothing brands: 68% of survey participants
indicate that manufacturers should produce items
from environmentally friendly materials, 60%
emphasize adherence to international standards,
50% support measures to promote conscious
consumption and the implementation of the
"green office" concept. Slightly fewer, 48%,
agree on the creation and promotion of eco-
projects; 40% are interested in implementing
eco-efficient consumption; 34% expect the
formulation of environmental goals and their
publication on official websites; 30% support
collaborations with partners and the publication
of environmental reports; 28% advocate for
cooperation with NGOs.
Studying the perception of information regarding
the environmental activities of Ukrainian fashion
brands through communication channels will
help understand which dissemination tools are
currently more effective. This will help orient in
the aspects of developing an environmental
concept. Thus, in response to the question "How
do you feel about information in the
news/internet/social media about the
environmental initiatives of Ukrainian fashion
brands?" 77.6% of respondents give a positive
answer, meaning they believe the company is
making an important contribution to sustainable
development; 12.2% of respondents do not trust
information sources and perceive it as a planned
PR campaign, while 10.2% show absolute apathy
towards this issue (see Figure 7).
Do you think Ukrainian fashion brands should
pay more attention to their environmental
footprint?
Yes No I don't know what they do now
140
www.amazoniainvestiga.info ISSN 2322- 6307
Figure 7. Respondents' perception of information about environmental initiatives of brands in social
networks.
Source: Authors’ computation.
The online survey also included an open-ended
question about respondents' expectations of the
environmental activities of fashion brands. In
particular, survey participants mentioned the
following aspects of their vision of sustainable
development: prospects for rapid growth;
adherence to European norms and rules;
affordability of eco-friendly clothing in terms of
pricing policy; environmental responsibility of
mass-market brands; creating clothing from
recycled materials that will shape the values of
conscious consumption and provide a new
perspective on waste and excessive consumption;
active promotion of conscious consumption. In
response to the question "Are you ready to fully
transition to conscious consumption?" 54%
answered "yes" and 36% answered "no".
Additionally, 4% openly responded "50/50" and
indicated that they are willing to switch to
conscious consumption if it does not force them
out of their comfort zone.
More than half of the surveyed respondents
stated that they are willing to transition to
conscious ecological consumption but on the
condition of quality production. As seen from the
survey results, the audience is ready to endorse
such environmental initiatives by brands that will
contribute to building a positive reputation and
contribute to the growth of business efficiency
and success.
Overall, we can observe the situational
implementation of environmental initiatives by
fashion brands. Our analysis only confirms the
findings of the international network Pro Bono
Club Ukraine (CSR Ukraine, 2021), which were
mentioned earlier, regarding the low
prioritization of environmental protection
projects for businesses. The fashion brands
selected for our analysis mostly target not only
the Ukrainian audience but also the international
one, which is more demanding in terms of
business environmental responsibility.
Therefore, most of the eco-initiatives of these
brands were directed towards external
consumers. Ukrainian consumers, as indicated by
the results of our sociological research, are less
demanding regarding the environmental
responsibility of businesses. This suggests that at
the moment, the environmental responsibility of
brands does not have a significant impact on
consumer preference or sales levels.
Conclusions
Based on the results of the study, it can be
concluded that the Ukrainian market is only
beginning to take environmental issues seriously.
In turn, brands have successful corporate
responsibility results within global and large
enterprises present in the domestic space. In a
broader context, issues of conscious
consumption and environmentalism are raised by
designer brands that, in addition to ecological
sustainability, also focus on social initiatives,
particularly caring for employees. However, such
activities still have a situational character as there
is no clear ecological concept within the
Volume 13 - Issue 74
/ February 2024
141
http:// www.amazoniainvestiga.info ISSN 2322- 6307
comprehensive CSR of Ukrainian fashion
companies.
Based on the analysis of the domestic experience
of integrating the environmental component of
CSR into the activities of fashion brands, as well
as the results of the conducted sociological
research, we have managed to confirm the
hypothesis of this study that a trend is emerging
in Ukrainian society regarding the importance of
transitioning to conscious clothing consumption.
However, consumers are currently exhibiting
passive behavior regarding environmental
responsibility. This has led to the emergence of a
phenomenon where Ukrainian fashion brands are
adopting the practices of foreign companies
regarding the application of the environmental
component of corporate social responsibility
during production and sales activities through
situational methods, shaping the culture of "eco-
fashion." Meanwhile, in the United States and
Europe, consumers demand that companies
conduct eco-responsible business activities,
where neglecting consumer needs can worsen
reputation indicators.
Based on the research findings, it can be assumed
that in Ukraine, it is necessary to activate the
implementation of brand environmental
responsibility - raising awareness among
Ukrainian society about environmental threats
and meeting their interests or even the need for
the production of quality clothing from organic
materials.
It should not be expected that all fashion brands
will be environmentally conscious, just as
consumers are not. However, as our research has
shown, brands that enter the international market
feel the need to develop and implement
environmental concepts. The main directions of
their future activities include the comprehensive
development of the brand's mission, vision, and
values as integral components of brand
reputation formation. The development and
implementation of individual elements forming a
comprehensive environmental concept should
include:
‒ Designing environmental responsibility
policies;
‒ Developing a plan of action for joining the
UN Global Compact;
‒ Collaboration with organizations certifying
materials and production methods;
‒ Active informational campaigns promoting
conscious consumption and environmental
responsibility.
Bibliographic references
Bilous, A. (2021). My reality is cooler than a
dream - Katya Silchenko. ELLE. Recovered
from https://acortar.link/FAdJFl /
Birkner, C. (2020). Вeyond sustainability.
Introducing Ukrainian Fashion Week.
Sustainable fashion matters. Official website.
Recovered from https://acortar.link/vLL2vG
Carson, R. (1962). Silent spring. Fawcett
publications. Recovered from
https://acortar.link/Hky1HI
Correa, E.A., Palacio-López, S.M.,
Sánchez-Torres, J.A., Martínez, L.F.G.,
Zapata, J. P.A., Fernández, Y.L.H., &
Lopera, C.P. (2021). Effectiveness of social
responsibility marketing in young millennials
- Generation Y: analysis of three cases for
brand positioning. Heliyon, 7(10), e08150.
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.heliyon.2021.e0815
0
CSR Ukraine (2021). The second catalog of CSR
initiatives 2020-2021. Recovered from
https://acortar.link/bS3wmK
De Ponte, C., Liscio, M.C., & Sospiro, P. (2023).
State of the art on the Nexus between
sustainability, fashion industry and
sustainable business model. Sustainable
Chemistry and Pharmacy, 32, 100968.
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.scp.2023.100968
Dovhun, O., & Krykavskyy, Y. (2017).
Characteristic features of marketing internet
communications of ukrainian clothing
manufacturers. Scientific notes of the Lviv
University of Business and Love, 17, 68-74.
Recovered from https://acortar.link/zr6jeD
Fiialka, S. (2017). Greenwashing in
communication with consumers on the
ukrainian market. Printing and publishing:
Social communications,
1(73), 116-128. Recovered from
https://ela.kpi.ua/bitstream/123456789/2977
7/1/15.pdf
Fombrun, C., & Shanley, M. (1990). What’s in a
name? Reputation building and corporate
strategy. Academy of Management Journal,
33(2), 233-258. DOI: 10.2307/256324
Galushka, K., & Kondratenko, N. (2020). Main
features of sustainable clothing production
and its strategic fashion marketing.
Technologies of light industry and materials
science, 3(36), 1-12. Recovered from
https://acortar.link/H22w3C
Gerasymenko, O., Chuprina, N., Davydenko, I.,
Chubotina, I., Khomenko, V., &
Kudrevsky, M. (2023). Upcycling and
minimalism as fashion trends of sustainable
consumption of fashion products. Art and
142
www.amazoniainvestiga.info ISSN 2322- 6307
Design, (3), 101-120.
https://doi.org/10.30857/2617-0272.2023.3.9
Kamyshnykova, E. (2017). Analysis of
environmental aspects of corporate social
responsibility in associations of enterprises of
Ukraine. Cost-effective analysis, 27(4),
205-210. Recovered from
https://www.econa.org.ua/index.php/econa/a
rticle/view/1456
Kryzhevskyi, V., Ripenko, A., Nikitin, V.,
Kozin, S., & Kuzmenko, D. (2023). State
policy in the sphere of environmental
protection: the regulatory aspect. Amazonia
Investiga, 12(61), 255-261.
https://doi.org/10.34069/AI/2023.61.01.26
Kvasnytsya, R. (2019). Environmental and Ethic
Conceptions in the Fashion Industry and
Presentation Spaces for Fashionable
Innovations. International Academy Journal
Web of Scholar, 2(32), 23-29.
https://doi.org/10.31435/rsglobal_wos/28022
019/6343
Lahoda, O., Tokar, M., Hurdina, V.,
Bondarenko, B., & Ieremenko, I. (2023).
Ecodesign and initiatives of sustainable
development in the dimension of passion of
artistic and design creativity. Amazonia
Investiga, 12(65), 212-218.
https://doi.org/10.34069/AI/2023.65.05.20
Mahmoud, A. B., Kumar, V., Fuxman, L., &
Mohr, I. (2023). Climate change risks,
sustainability and luxury branding: Friend or
a foe. Industrial Marketing Management,
115, 57-68.
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.indmarman.2023.09
.008
Marchenko, K. (2020). Ksenia Schnaider is a
fashion brand from Kyiv that has conquered
Dua Lipa, Celine Dion and Bella Hadid. My
Kiev. Recovered from
https://acortar.link/G0FJnX
Minochkina, O., Adamovska, V., Buryk, Z., &
Skibitska, L. (2023). The role of the state in
supporting social investment projects to
ensure sustainable development. Amazonia
Investiga, 12(64), 340-347.
https://doi.org/10.34069/AI/2023.64.04.36
Misyuk, A. (2020). "There is nothing old and
nothing new": the new eco-collection of the
Ukrainian designer LITKOVSKAYA in Paris.
Portal Hochu. Recovered from
https://acortar.link/K8S5qa
Nyzovets, A. (2023). Ukrainian brands at Paris
Fashion Week. How the earnings, the client
and the team have changed over the year.
Information agency LIGABusinessInform.
Recovered from https://acortar.link/G8xdiK
Orden Nº 66. Sobre la aprobación del Concepto
de implementación de la política estatal en el
ámbito de la promoción del desarrollo de
empresas socialmente responsables en
Ucrania para el período hasta 2030. Gabinete
de Ministros de Ucrania, 24 de enero de
2020. Recovered from
https://zakon.rada.gov.ua/laws/show/66-
2020-р#Text
Porter, M., & Kramer, M. (2006). Strategy and
Society: The Link Between Competitive
Advantage and Corporate Social
Responsibility. Harvard Business Review.
Recovered from https://acortar.link/KJwYsM
Prys, Y. (2020a). The story of
KSENIASCHNAIDER within the UFW
special project — Action: Sustainable
Fashion. JetSetter.ua. Recovered from
https://acortar.link/8RCMWu
Prys, Y. (2020b). The story of the BEVZA brand
within the UFW special project — Action:
Sustainable Fashion. JetSetter.ua. Recovered
from https://acortar.link/Pjb0kO
Stanton, A. (2021). What Does Slow Fashion
Actually Mean? The Good Trade. Recovered
from
https://www.thegoodtrade.com/features/what
-is-slow-fashion
Shtuka, N. (2021). Is it crazy to challenge H&M,
Polish and Turkish giants? Ukrainian
clothing manufacturer Goldi decided to
check it out. What does he do? Forbes
Ukraine. Recovered from
https://forbes.ua/company/goldi-16112021-
2785
Tarayevska, L.S., & Rishchuk, L.I. (2021).
Environmental startup in fashion industry.
The actual problems of regional economy de
velopment, 17(2), 273-281. Recovered from
http://lib.pnu.edu.ua:8080/handle/12345678
9/12592
Tymoshenko, O., & Kotsiubivska, K. (2021).
Formation of Eco Concepts in Modern
Fashion Industry. Business Inform, 5,
273-280. (In Ukranian)
Zarebska, J., & Michalska, M. (2016). Ecological
innovations as a chance for sustainable
development - directions and obstacles in
their implementation. Management, 20(2),
49-64. https://doi.org/10.1515/manment-
2015-0050